The Fashion...? is a blog site for fashion tips, history, music, and gossip. I hope to spread the knowledge of fashion amongst many women across the world. I'm ReneA P. and this is my blog!
Happy Valentine's Day Loves! I hope you are spreading love and cheer to friends, family, your significant other, or all the above! This week for Black History, I talked about former model turned agent Ophelia DeVore. To continue on about African American agents and designers, this post is dedicated to fashion designer and costumer Zelda Wynn Valdes!
Zelda Wynn Valdes (or Zelda Barbour Wynn Valdes) was born on June 28 in 1905 in Pennsylvania. During the late forties, Wynn's sexy, hip-hugging gowns were worn by many famous celebrities such as Dorothy Dandridge, Josephine Baker, Ella Fitzgerald, and Gladys Knight. She also designed for major figures like Mae West and Marlene Dietrich. Because of Zelda's influence, actress/singer, Joyce Bryant had adapted to wearing skin-tight gowns, causing her career to take off in the 50's
In 1948, Wynn opened her own boutique in Manhattan (now Washington Heights on Broadway and West 158th Street). Her boutique, "Chez Zelda," made her the first African American to own a store on the streets of New York City. In 1949, Wynn became the president of the New York chapter of the National Association of Fashion and Accessory Designers (NAFAD), which was an organization of black designers founded by Mary McLeod Bethune.
Wynn had also designed the costumes for Arthur Mitchell's Dance Theatre of Harlem in 1970, and around the 1960's, she designed the iconic Playboy Bunny costumes.
Photo Credit|| Hugh Hefner and his Playboy Bunnies on the cover of LIFE
Photo Credit|| Zelda Wynn worked with the Dance Theatre of Harlem for nearly thirty years, becoming the company's Matriarch.
Wynn had stayed with the dance company until 2001, the year she died at the age of 96. Her designs and influence showed that women shouldn't hide their figures, but embrace them!
Plunging necklines; hip hugging fabric; all the essentials a woman needed! Get the iconic look when you pair a plunging neckline bustier with a wrapped maxi skirt. Complete the look with ankle booties and a stylish clutch. Now, with so much bare neck, don't be afraid to accessorize. Try a multichain necklace that resembles the halter straps on Joyce's gown.
Given Halloween was four months ago, dressing up as a Playboy Bunny would be a little ridiculous at the moment. However, who said you can't still channel that look for the up coming spring season (or "Rabbit Season!") So, get the look by pair a bustier with high waist shorts. Bunny stockings are adorable when paired with gold flats. And though it may seem warm, keep covered up with a leather jacket.
First African American Model who established on of the first Modeling Agency in America
Had a great weekend, loves? This week continuing on my Black History lessons, I will talk about African American designers and agents that helped pave the way for African American models. Our first agent is Ophelia DeVore!
Ophelia DeVore was born on August 12 of 1922 in Edgefiled, South Carolina. She was one of ten children born to John Walter DeVore and Mary Emma Strother. She has German American and African American descent from her father side while her mother was a Black Indian (people of African American and Native American descent). Growing up, Ophelia's father taught her to communicate efficiently with people and her mother stressed the importance of proper education, appearance, and etiquette.
Ophelia began modelling at the age of 16 in 1938. Given she had a light skin-color, she passed for Norwegian, thus attaining many contracts throughout Europe. Determined to create a market for non-white women in the US, DeVore established The Grace Del Marco Agency in 1946. Many household names, such as Helen Williams, Richard Roundtree, Diahann Carroll, and Cicely Tyson, began their careers at Grace Del Marco. Because of racism in the fashion business, the agency was more like a safe haven for non-white models.
Many of the shows that the Grace Del Marco would hold took place in churches, on college campuses, and in ballrooms of the Diplomat and Waldorf-Astoria hotels. Much of DeVore's breakthrough and success took place in Europe, especially in the French fashion world (they were quite fascinated with black beauties!)
Ophelia was a hard worker. She was wanted to maintain her role as an activist for non-whites in the fashion world. She hosted for ABC's Spotlight on Harlem around the 1960's as a way to bring media into her fight for equality. Some of her other activist work was The Ophelia DeVore School of Charm was a school that educated young African women on etiquette, poise, posture, grooming, speech, ballet, and many other aspects that a woman should know. Faith Evans is one of the many notable graduates.
In 2004, Ophelia DeVore was honored by FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) and the Fashion Arts Xchange, Inc. for her contributions to fashion and entertainment. She is currently the CEO and publisher of The Columbus Times Newspaper.
Before she established her agency, Ophelia worked as a model, predominately with Ebony magazine. She was graceful, poised, elegant, and all around determined to make a change. An iconic look from the 1930's was the bathing suit, which was composed of either a one piece short jumpsuit or a cropped top and a highwaisted short or skort. Resemble this look when you pair a cropped top with a highwaist, skater skirt. I choose the color burgundy because berry colors are my favorite, and purple sometimes mean royal. Perfect for an elegant doll! Complete the look with simple, ankle strap heels and fun accessories, like this Pucker Up necklace by NastyGal and these adorable drop earrings!
Beauty Inspired
Part of Ophelia's Charm School was to teach women how to apply makeup properly and to style their hair. Get a clean, fresh look when you dust your cheeks in powder foundation, lightly coat your lids with a shimmering gold, and curl your lashes with mascara. Don't forget to apply hair mousse for a elegant curls, and brush your hair with a wide brush to add a little more emphasis.
This week I featured models that paved the way for African American models. As we come to an end of week one, my final post will be of someone I admire at the moment. For this week, my favorite model is Sessilee Lopez! Her career started in 2004 when she signed with IMG Models. She's currently signed with Major Model Management Worldwide. Standing at 5'10", she has walked for many designers, such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Lanvin, Shiatzy Chen, Karl Lagerfeld, etc. She appeared in campaigns for H&M, DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, GAP, Levi's, and many more! She's appeared in many international editorials like French Elle, Japanesse Vogue, Allure, Spanish Harper's Bazaar...the list just goes on and on!
First African American Model featured on British Vogue
Our next fashion icon was a famous model and actress to be the first African American model featured on the cover of Vogue. However, like many victims during the 60's, fame and success involved drug use.
Donyale Luna was born on August 31, 1945 in Detroit, Michigan. Her real name was Peggy Ann Freeman, though she had insisted that her biological father's surname was Luna. Donyale's mother was of Indigenous Mexican and Afro-Egyptian lineage, and whether or not it's true, Donyale claimed that her grandmother was an Irish actress who married a black interior decorator.
Growing up, she was a kooky child with a wild personality. While attending Cass Technical High School during her teen years, she studied journalism and was part of the school choir. She began to refer herself as Donyale during this time as well.
Donyale was discovered by David McCabe, a British Fashion Photographer, who convinced her to pursue a modeling career in New York. She started off big, appearing on the cover of Harper's Bazaar in 1965. She then moved to London around the same time and appeared on the cover of British Vogue in March of 1966. Her career was taking off, especially considering the Civil Rights Act in 1964 was passed, giving more and more black models an opportunity.
Photo Credit|| The sketch used for the 1965 Harper's Bazaar cover
Donyale worked as an actress for a few of Andy Warhol's underground films, and was also seen as a benefactor of African American actrors. She had relationships with a few actors and photographers, including German actor, Klaus Kinski, and her widowed husband, Italian photographer Luigi Cazzaniga.
Featured in a New York Times profile, Donyale confessed for using drugs, such as LSD, stating that she enjoyed it. Her overuse of narcostics soon lead to her her downfall. In May 17, 1979, Donyale, age 32, died from an overdose of heroin while at a friend's house in Rome. Her early death left her husband with their 18 month old daughter, Dream, who for many years did not know anything about her mother.
Photo Credit|| Donyale with her husband, Luigi Cazzaniga
Though Donyale may have passed away early in her life, she was still considered one kooky girl! She had an eccentric personality that could either brighten someone's day or wonder what the heck was wrong with her! In the 60's, fashion was all about prints and short dresses. Get this wild look when you pair a sleeveless mosaic shift dress with sandals. Complete the look with geometric drop earrings, "groovy" textured sunglasses, and a plain tote to match.
Donyale claimed she had Afro-Egyptian linage, and like Egyptian makeup, the eyes are always dramatic. Use liquid liner to outline your lids, and use the pencil to color in any missed spots. For the nails, stick with something natural, yet bold, like white or pale.
First African American Model to Break into the Mainstream
Happy Black History Month to you loves! For the rest of this month, I will be posting articles about great African American men and women, as well as provide fashion inspiration. This week is all about African American Models. Our first icon is Helen Williams!
Helen was born in East Riverton, New Jersey in 1937. As a child, she was fascinated and obsessed with clothing. She began sewing at the age of seven, creating her own garments. Goring up, she studied drama, dance, and art. She first worked in New York as a stylist for photo shoots before she began modeling around the age of seventeen. She was signed by model-turned-agent, Ophelia DeVore.
Photo Credit|| DeVore's mission was to present African American models "in a way that was not stereotyped" (Ebony).
During the 50's and 60's, fashion modeling for African Americans was a struggled. The industry typically excluded all non-white models from mainstream fashion. And sometimes, only light-skinned models were allowed. Even though Helen Williams was gorgeous and stunning, she was deemed too dark for the industry.
However, things were much different in France. When Williams moved to Paris around the 1960's, she modelled for many famous designers, such as Christian Dior and Jean Dessès. Black beauty held a much higher interest in France than in America. Thus Helen was able to work for around $7,500 a year. Similar to Josephine Baker, Helen received many marriage proposals by French admirers who "worship the ground [she walks] on," (Arogundade).
After moving back to America, things had not changed for dark-skinned models. As Helen searched for a new agent in New York City, she was determined and stubborned. After being rejected by one agency who claimed they already had a black model, Helen began a new cause, which grabbed the attention of journalists Dorothy Kilgallen and Earl Wilson. By writing about Helen's struggle and the problems African American models faced in the industry, Helen was offered jobs by Budweiser, Loom Togs, and Modess.
After fighting for equality for African American models, Williams became the first to break the four hundred chain that deemed dark skin as ugly. From seeing dark skin as simply "maid-like" in media and television, a new window was open for dark models, thus making Helen the first black, mainstream model!
Helen Williams was a beautiful woman with great bone structure, lovely features, and an iconic style that any fashionista can replicate. Get her look when you pair a blouse with a flared skirt. Just tuck in the top and pull it back out just a bit to get that 50's/60's vibe. Complete the look with simple patent heels, gold knot earrings with crystals, and a gold cuff bracelet.
Helen's iconic bouffant wig, sculpted brows, and giraffe-like neck was her signature look. Simply wet your hair and add about a dollop of hair mousse and style to get shiny, voluminous curls. The color of the lipstick you should use should be at least one or two shades darker than your lips to get a glamorous feel. Lastly, coat your lashes, add liner, and sculpt your brows!
Helen had a smile that could entrance her audience. She was featured in many ads, as well as modelled for Ebony and Jet magazine, two popular black magazines during her time!
Here's to a black beauty! Until next time, loves! ~~ReneA P.
Many apologies for my absence, dolls. But to make up for my time gone, I have a little history to share. Many of you many know that February is known as Black History Month. For today, I would like to dedicate this post to an influential African American who helped change the nation with her wit, beauty, and heart!
Josephine Baker, born Freda Josephine McDonald, was an African American French dancer, actress, singer, and activist. She was born on June 3, 1906 in St. Louis Missouri. Growing up, she waitress and babysat for wealthy families and soon married her first husband, Jean-Claude Baker.
Josephine was known for her energetic personality, independence, beauty, and barely-there ensembles. She began preforming in 1919 with the Jones Family Band and the Dixie Steppers where she traveled across the United States preforming various comical skits and performances.
Josephine got her big break in the musical Shuffle Along, which also featured Adelaide Hall and Paul Robeson. However, the turning point in Josephine's career was when she traveled to Paris and preformed in La Revue
Nègre.
Josephine was also a major figure during World War II. She sang for the troops and worked as a spy, composing secret messages on her music sheets. She was alsoa sub-lieutenant in
the Women's Auxiliary Air Force. She was honored with the Medal
of the Resistance and named a Chevalier of the Legion
of Honor by the French government.
Visiting the states in the 50's and 60's, Josephine sought to fight against racism and segregation. She adopted twelve children, known as The Rainbow Tribe, where she stated that "children of different ethnicities
and religions could still be brothers." Josephine later died from a cerebral
hemorrhage on April 12, 1975, and was buried in France.
Josephine's style was seductive, exotic, and typical 20's glam. She was offered diamonds and pearls, as well as numerous marriage proposals. She was nicknamed "Black Venus," "Black Pearl," and "Creole Goddess" for her beauty and energy. Her beauty advice was "Dance a lot and
sweat a lot, because that makes you sleep," and it proved to worked for this lovely lady.
Josephine had a very wild style composed of pieces that showed off her long legs and slim figure. The 1920's was a time for short dresses, diamonds, and pearls. As well as good dancing shoes!
Get inspired by the 1920's flapper style with this drop waist, pocket dress and sheer cardigan. Complete the look with adorable kitten heels and chain, fringe earrings.
Josephine took over the fashion world in the 20's and 30's with her satin gowns, dramatic makeup, and her iconic Banana costume. As she put it, "I wasn’t really naked. I simply didn’t have any clothes on." Get this iconic look with a yellow, pleated skater skirt and a crochet, crop top. Finish it off with T-strap sandals, bangles, and a banana pendant necklace.
Chiquita, one of Josephine's numerous pets, was one pretty kitty...er, cheetah. Be pampered and glamorous with a cheetah print dress and brown boots. Finish the look, and mimic Chiquita, with a gold choker.
View one of Josephine's dances from Princess Tam Tam and her famous Banana Dance
